2019 Domaine Joannès Violot-Guillemard Meursault

The 2019 vintage from Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard – which will in fact appear under a new label that highlights the involvement of Thierry’s son, Joannes, in the family business – is a magnificent wine. Significant percentages of whole clusters have been deftly handled and combined with intelligent cooperage choices to deliver wines with aromatic profiles more reminiscent of the best addresses of the Côte de Nuits than any old-fashioned stereotype of burley and resolutely earthy Pommard. Fragrant, seamless and penetrating, these are a brilliant set of wines. Joannes, my near-contemporary, is certainly not lacking in self-confidence, but anyone who tastes his 2019 set will have to admit that it is worth the effort.