2022 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese Riesling
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
|---|---|
| Land | |
| Regio | |
| Wijnhuis | |
| Jaar | 2022 |
| Druif | |
| Inhoud (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (11%) |
| Drink venster | 2024 - 2050 |
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Omschrijving
Markus Molitor maakt al jaren grote wijnen in de Moezel. Vroeger vooral bekend om zijn wijnen met restzoet. Tegenwoordig vooral geroemd om zijn droge wijnen waarbij zijn 2 en 3 sterren droge ausleses bij Parker zo goed als altijd tussen de 96/100 en 100/100 scoren. Enorme mineraliteit en lengte. Naast de wijnen onder zijn eigen naam kocht hij in 2016 de wijngaard van Domäne Serrig aan in de Saar-vallei. Domäne Deze wijnen worden alleen maar en primeur verdeeld door Place du Bordeaux en waar Grandcruwijnen is bij aangesloten. Markus Molitor is een Duitse sterwijnmaker en Riesling ‘Supermo’ met 23x100 punten en 35x99 punten van gerenommeerde critici als Wine Advocate & James Suckling.
Het ongeveer 23 hectare grote steile terrein met een zuidzuidwestelijke oriëntatie heeft een middelgrote leisteenverweerde bodem met een hoog steenaandeel. Het bijzondere aan de Sonnenuhr zijn de eeuwenoude wijngaarden met veelal onbebouwde wijnstokken. Wijnen uit de Zeltinger Sonnenuhr zijn ongelooflijk elegant, delicaat, speels en hebben een delicate zuurstructuur. De 100% gezonde manueel geoogste druiven werden voorzichtig geperst en enkele uren gemacereerd op de aromatische en mineraalrijke bessenschillen. Vervolgens werd de most spontaan, langzaam en koel gefermenteerd, zodat de veelzijdige, fruitige aroma's van de wijn zich volledig konden ontwikkelen. Een zachte expansie in roestvrijstalen tanks met een lange opslag op de fijne gist (sur lie) volgde op de gisting.
De Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese White Capsule komt van eeuwenoude wijnstokken. Deze prachtwijn heeft een complexe neus met een breed spectrum aan aroma's van steen- en citrusfruit trekt je mee in deze geconcentreerde en zeer gestructureerde droge Moezel-riesling die medium-bodied is maar slechts 11% alcohol bevat. Een serieus pittige afdronk die beslist droog en zeer steenachtig is en een geweldig drinkvenster heeft.
WEETJE: De wijn ligt in ons geconditioneerde Wine Warehouse en als u de wijn komt afhalen ontvangt u ook nog een mooie korting. U ziet uw korting direct wanneer u kiest voor Afhalen in Afreken-pagina. We zitten bijna naast de Rijksweg met volop parkeergelegenheid. Klik hier voor ons adres.
Specificaties
| Block Bundle Options | Nee |
|---|---|
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
| Land | Duitsland |
| Regio | Moezel |
| Wijnhuis | Markus Molitor |
| Druif | Riesling |
| Biologisch gecertificeerd | Nee |
| Natural wijn | Nee |
| Vegan | Nee |
| Jaar | 2022 |
| Drinken vanaf | 2024 |
| Drinken tot | 2050 |
| Alcohol % | 11 |
| Alcoholvrij/arm | Nee |
| Inhoud | 0.75 ltr |
| Houtrijping | Ja |
| Bubbels | Nee |
| Dessert wijn | Nee |
| Afsluiting | Kurk |
| Parker rating | 93 |
| James Suckling rating | 95 |
| Vinous rating | 92 |
| Smaakprofiel | Aromatisch, Bloemig, Complex, Droog, Fris, Fruitig, Mineraal, Strak, Wit fruit |
| Drink momenten | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
Professionele Recensies
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 93
Reviewed by:
Stephan Reinhardt
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
2023 - 2050
The 2021 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese (White Capsule) opens with a clear and intense nose of perfectly ripe, bright fruits and blue-skinned grapes. Round, lush and savory on the palate, this is a medium-bodied, fresh yet somewhat watery ZSU that reveals substance and savoriness but not the inner concentration of other vintages. 11% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023 (AP 19 22).
Markus Molitor doesn't know bad vintages; at most, there are difficult ones. Almost each vintage has its challenges, plus the size of Weingut Markus Molitor—which hasn't been talked about for many years but should be more than 100 hectares, the 25-hectare Domaine Serrig in the Saar not included—can also cause difficulties. In truly challenging vintages, such as 2021 and also 2022, a big crowd of pickers can't be everywhere at the same time, so Molitor had to give up parcels weeks before the harvest. In the end, the list of the current collection, with the focus on the 2021 Rieslings and the 2019 Pinot Noirs, is still impressive. Even after the reduction, I had 88 wines to taste here. Although the 2021 vintage brought Molitor's very first Scharzhofbergers, it is the first vintage since I began reviewing his wines for the Wine Advocate (starting with the 2013 vintage) that doesn't include a 100-pointer so far. The Hubertuslay Beerenauslese * was very, very close, and the TBAs are still fermenting... The "lack" of a 100-pointer in the 2021 vintage is not really surprising, though. The late-ripening vintage was dramatic in terms of rainfall and cooler temperatures throughout the vegetation period, and the pickings had to be very selective. The Molitor team did a great job again, and the nature of the vintage is mirrored in the lineup: I had 34 dry whites to taste, of which 31 were Riesling—five were Kabinett, seven Spätlese and 10 were Auslese quality (six two-starred, four three-starred), and the rest are sold without predicate as Qualitätswein. Only seven wines were green-capsuled, which means feinherb or off-dry (one Kabinett, one Auslese (one star), four Spätlese and one without predicate). The second big group of the list are the 31 gold-capsuled sweet wines, of which 13 are Auslese (two one-starred, three two-starred, eight three-starred) and two one-starred Beerenauslesen. Three top crus come as dry quality wine without predicate. As usual, they are Erdener Prälat, Scharzhofberger and Bernkasteler Doctor. This is quite sensational for a producer who insisted for decades on the Prädikatswein system for dry wines as well, including the grands crus. The estate and village dry wines have been an exception for a while; but for the most prestigious crus of the portfolio, this is breaking news. "The vintage simply wasn't ripe enough for the very top quality," Molitor explained, and he said this will also be the case for the 2022 vintage. The renunciation of the predicate, no matter which one, enabled Molitor to slightly improve the musts in order to be able to give the wines the desired (and probably also expected) body. The grands crus Prälat and Doctor and probably also Scharzhofberger are, after all, exceptionally expensive wines by German standards. Collectors who spend 700 to 1,500 euros for a bottle of Riesling may indeed expect a certain amount of power and concentration on the palate, even if the vintage did not voluntarily give these characteristics. Molitor has never sold his three top wines under the Auslese label, at least not among the dry-fermented versions. Will 2021 and 2022 bring about a change? Molitor has no final thoughts on this yet, but simply selling the wines under their site name, as their colleagues in Burgundy do, is a serious consideration. Other news might be that Molitor for the first time revealed in our conversation (but not on the label) that three of his 2021 top dry (white-capsuled) Rieslings were vinified exclusively in "alternative" vats: the Ockfener Bockstein Auslese ***, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** and the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** were all vinified in a concrete egg and in clay amphorae. None of the wines have been released yet, and there is no schedule for them. The wines are fabulous and represent all the energy and vibrancy of the 2021 vintage, particularly their terroirs. Molitoir's finest 2021s are the sweet (gold capsuled) Erdener Prälat Auslese *** and the Hubertuslay Beerenauslese *, the Erdener Treppchen Auslese ***, the Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (sweet and dry AP 92 from the amphora), the Scharzhofberger Spätlese and, last but not least, the dry Scharzhofberger. There is also an impressive gold-capsuled Kabinett of the Scharzhofberger, yet no wines of this iconic site have been released yet. We will probably have to wait for the auction either this or next year.
Published: May 31, 2023
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James Suckling
MARKUS MOLITOR RIESLING MOSEL ZELTINGER SONNENUHR SPÄTLESE (WHITE CAP) 2022
Monday, November 13, 2023
CountryGermany
RegionMosel
Vintage2022
CHECK PRICE
DOWNLOAD SHELFTALKER
Score
95
A complex nose with a wide spectrum of stone and citrus fruit aromas pulls you into this concentrated and highly-structured dry Mosel riesling that’s medium-bodied but has just 11% alcohol. Seriously racy finish that is decisively dry and very stony. Excellent potential. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
Stuart Pigott
Senior Editor
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Vinous
92
Drinking Window
2028 - 3045
From: 2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)
The 2022 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese White Capsule sends a creamy note ahead of the citrus on a rather shy nose. The palate shows ripe Mirabelle that is edged with lemon freshness; the lemon takes over, taking this further and further into zestiness on a slender palate. The 2022 is a slender Spätlese with lots of lemony verve. (Dry)
- By Anne Krebiehl MW on September 2023
Any visit to Markus Molitor’s Haus Klosterberg is a tour de force. The man himself is a force of nature. He tirelessly drives to make the best wines possible, do the utmost justice to his vineyards, and vinify as many parcels separately as he can. “Akribie,” or absolute meticulousness, is his guiding principle. His next favorite word is selection. “Transporting the identity of each site into the glass time after time, vintage by vintage,” is how one of his employees described the ethos of the estate. Add to this a tireless, obsessive nature and a deep-seated love for this intricate region and its history, and you begin to understand what you are in for. Molitor’s vast estate holdings, now amounting to 120 hectares, include the property of the former Prussian State Domaine in Serrig (Saar), which he bought in 2016. He notes how both the pandemic and building supply issues delayed the planned re-opening of this historic renovation project. Then there are new acquisitions: it took lengthy negotiation and persuasion with more than 60 vineyard owners to piece together the numerous parcels of the cooler, well-ventilated vineyards in the upper Zeltinger Schlossberg, many of them fallow for years. Molitor bought these to recultivate, so his supply of grapes for Kabinett wines is ensured in the ever-warming climate. Harvest in these elevated sites is two to three weeks later than in lower-lying vineyards. Molitor also says that he is always “on the lookout” for more sites suitable for Pinot Noir, having been among the first to plant the variety after it was re-permitted in the region in the 1980s and noting that it will be “ever more important” in the region. Wine styles at Molitor are color-coded: white capsules denote dry, green is off-dry, and gold is sweet. Within these categories, wines are tiered into one, two and three stars of each of the Prädikate, harking back to the pre-1971 attributes of “feiner”, “feinste” and “hochfein” – meaning finer, finest and absolutely fine. This old-fashioned but clear-cut distinction was conferred on wines before they went to auction during the last decades of the 19th and the first decades of the 20th centuries—the glory days of Riesling. A three-star Auslese can thus be produced in trocken, feinherb or sweet and so on. Multiply this by countless parcels in numerous sites across Mosel and Saar, several harvest passes for various Prädikate, and you understand the number of wines on offer. The star ratings are not down to degrees of Oechsle, i.e., the ripeness of the must at harvest, but to the evolution of every single lot of wine in the cellar. Molitor notes that many of the three-star Auslesen are made in tiny quantities of just 300-500 bottles. Three stars guarantee a wine at the very height of its expression. They often are from the oldest vines – but not necessarily. The sweetest Prädikate, BAs and TBAs, in tiny kegs and glass balloons, are still fermenting away in a corner of the smaller tasting room, so they benefit from the warmer temperature that they need at their glacial pace of progress. All dry wines, made strictly without botrytized grapes, are fermented and matured in 2,000- and 3,000-liter barrels made by Stockinger and some smaller barrels. This results in some Rieslings with a distinct touch of oak-derived hazelnut creaminess. Some wines also ferment in amphora, concrete egg and stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation is avoided as much as possible. While Riesling is the mainstay, Pinot Noir is of growing importance. There is also a little Pinot Blanc and, since 2018, also some Chardonnay. About 2022, Molitor said, “The important thing was to reduce yields,” and noted that depending on the site, this meant 30-40% less than his long-term average. “There has never been so little Auslese trocken,” he said and noted that, unlike some local colleagues, he did not chaptalize his wines. “There are few high caliber dry wines,” he added, “there is just a handful of extremely selected dry Auslesen, but they are still in barrel.” As could be expected from Molitor, the fact that 2022 did not offer much botrytis did not prevent him from making “16-17 nobly sweet wines, including two Beerenauslesen, one from Ürziger Würzgarten, one from Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, and two TBAs, both in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, all still fermenting away. “Each and every single raisin was selected,” he said of the painstaking work necessary to achieve such wines, explaining that he has a trusted team of women who are experienced sorters. Pressing in a small basket press takes eight to ten hours for these raisined berries. “Since 1988, we have made TBA without exception. This is no longer anything to do with economic efficiency. Indeed, the 2022 Rieslings are a mixed bunch, and, in this vintage, where Riesling struggled to ripen due to water stress, the dry wines, i.e., the white capsule wines, are slender and less expressive than usual. However, the off-dry (green capsule) and sweet (golden capsule) wines are thrilling and animating. I also tasted three dry Auslesen from 2021 that had not been bottled on my previous visit. These are phenomenal wines.
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Exclusieve Inhoud
Log in om professionele wijnrecensies van wereldberoemde critici te ontgrendelen
Wijnhuis
Markus Molitor is een Duitse wijnmaker en is gevestigd in de Moezel, Duitsland. De wijnmakerij staat bekend om het produceren van hoogwaardige Rieslings, en Markus Molitor wordt beschouwd als een van de meest innovatieve wijnmakers in de regio.
Geschiedenis van Markus Molitor
De familie Molitor heeft een diepgewortelde geschiedenis in de wijnbereiding die vele generaties beslaat. Markus Molitor vertegenwoordigt de achtste generatie van het erfgoed van Molitor. De betrokkenheid van de familie bij de wijnbouw in de Moezel gaat terug tot de 18e eeuw. Markus Molitor nam het familielandgoed in 1984 op 20-jarige leeftijd officieel over. Het landgoed, gelegen in het wijngebied van de Moezel, beschikt over steile wijngaarden langs de rivier de Moezel, een karakteristiek kenmerk van de regio. De Moezel staat bekend om zijn steile, terrasvormige wijngaarden. De hellingen zorgen voor een optimale blootstelling aan zonlicht en zijn een integraal onderdeel van het unieke terroir van de wijnen die in deze regio worden geproduceerd.
Productie van Markus Molitor
Markus Molitor heeft er bewust voor gekozen om zich te concentreren op de druivensoort Riesling, die bijzonder goed geschikt is voor het koele klimaat en de leisteengronden van de Moezel. Riesling staat bekend om zijn expressieve aromaten, zuurgraad en het vermogen om het terroir te weerspiegelen. Onder leiding van Markus Molitor onderging het landgoed een aanzienlijke uitbreiding en modernisering. Er werden nieuwe wijngaarden verworven en de bestaande werden zorgvuldig beheerd om fruit van de hoogste kwaliteit te garanderen. Markus Molitor produceert een breed scala aan Rieslings die de Prädikat-niveaus bestrijken, wat de rijpheid van de druiven bij de oogst aangeeft. Het portfolio omvat droge stijlen (Trocken), halfdroge en zoete wijnen, die de veelzijdigheid van de Riesling benadrukken. Het landgoed staat bekend om zijn nadruk op wijnen uit één specifieke wijngaard. Deze wijnen benadrukken de onderscheidende kenmerken van specifieke wijngaarden, bekend als "Grosses Gewächs" of "Erste Lage." De toewijding van Markus Molitor aan kwaliteit en de unieke expressie van het terroir heeft het landgoed internationale bekendheid opgeleverd. De wijnen zijn gewild bij verzamelaars en liefhebbers vanwege hun authenticiteit en leeftijdswaardige kenmerken. Markus Molitor respecteert de traditionele wijnbereidingsmethoden, waaronder zorgvuldige handmatige oogst en zachte verwerking van de druiven. Tegelijkertijd past hij moderne technieken toe om de kwaliteit van de wijnen verder te verbeteren.
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Markus Molitor maakt al jaren grote wijnen in de Moezel. Vroeger vooral bekend om zijn wijnen met restzoet. Tegenwoordig vooral geroemd om zijn droge wijnen waarbij zijn 2 en 3 sterren droge ausleses bij Parker zo goed als altijd tussen de 96/100 en 100/100 scoren. Enorme mineraliteit en lengte. Naast de wijnen onder zijn eigen naam kocht hij in 2016 de wijngaard van Domäne Serrig aan in de Saar-vallei. Domäne Deze wijnen worden alleen maar en primeur verdeeld door Place du Bordeaux en waar Grandcruwijnen is bij aangesloten. Markus Molitor is een Duitse sterwijnmaker en Riesling ‘Supermo’ met 23x100 punten en 35x99 punten van gerenommeerde critici als Wine Advocate & James Suckling.
Het ongeveer 23 hectare grote steile terrein met een zuidzuidwestelijke oriëntatie heeft een middelgrote leisteenverweerde bodem met een hoog steenaandeel. Het bijzondere aan de Sonnenuhr zijn de eeuwenoude wijngaarden met veelal onbebouwde wijnstokken. Wijnen uit de Zeltinger Sonnenuhr zijn ongelooflijk elegant, delicaat, speels en hebben een delicate zuurstructuur. De 100% gezonde manueel geoogste druiven werden voorzichtig geperst en enkele uren gemacereerd op de aromatische en mineraalrijke bessenschillen. Vervolgens werd de most spontaan, langzaam en koel gefermenteerd, zodat de veelzijdige, fruitige aroma's van de wijn zich volledig konden ontwikkelen. Een zachte expansie in roestvrijstalen tanks met een lange opslag op de fijne gist (sur lie) volgde op de gisting.
De Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese White Capsule komt van eeuwenoude wijnstokken. Deze prachtwijn heeft een complexe neus met een breed spectrum aan aroma's van steen- en citrusfruit trekt je mee in deze geconcentreerde en zeer gestructureerde droge Moezel-riesling die medium-bodied is maar slechts 11% alcohol bevat. Een serieus pittige afdronk die beslist droog en zeer steenachtig is en een geweldig drinkvenster heeft.
WEETJE: De wijn ligt in ons geconditioneerde Wine Warehouse en als u de wijn komt afhalen ontvangt u ook nog een mooie korting. U ziet uw korting direct wanneer u kiest voor Afhalen in Afreken-pagina. We zitten bijna naast de Rijksweg met volop parkeergelegenheid. Klik hier voor ons adres.
| Block Bundle Options | Nee |
|---|---|
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
| Land | Duitsland |
| Regio | Moezel |
| Wijnhuis | Markus Molitor |
| Druif | Riesling |
| Biologisch gecertificeerd | Nee |
| Natural wijn | Nee |
| Vegan | Nee |
| Jaar | 2022 |
| Drinken vanaf | 2024 |
| Drinken tot | 2050 |
| Alcohol % | 11 |
| Alcoholvrij/arm | Nee |
| Inhoud | 0.75 ltr |
| Houtrijping | Ja |
| Bubbels | Nee |
| Dessert wijn | Nee |
| Afsluiting | Kurk |
| Parker rating | 93 |
| James Suckling rating | 95 |
| Vinous rating | 92 |
| Smaakprofiel | Aromatisch, Bloemig, Complex, Droog, Fris, Fruitig, Mineraal, Strak, Wit fruit |
| Drink momenten | Indruk maken, Lekker luxe |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 93
Reviewed by:
Stephan Reinhardt
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
2023 - 2050
The 2021 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese (White Capsule) opens with a clear and intense nose of perfectly ripe, bright fruits and blue-skinned grapes. Round, lush and savory on the palate, this is a medium-bodied, fresh yet somewhat watery ZSU that reveals substance and savoriness but not the inner concentration of other vintages. 11% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2023 (AP 19 22).
Markus Molitor doesn't know bad vintages; at most, there are difficult ones. Almost each vintage has its challenges, plus the size of Weingut Markus Molitor—which hasn't been talked about for many years but should be more than 100 hectares, the 25-hectare Domaine Serrig in the Saar not included—can also cause difficulties. In truly challenging vintages, such as 2021 and also 2022, a big crowd of pickers can't be everywhere at the same time, so Molitor had to give up parcels weeks before the harvest. In the end, the list of the current collection, with the focus on the 2021 Rieslings and the 2019 Pinot Noirs, is still impressive. Even after the reduction, I had 88 wines to taste here. Although the 2021 vintage brought Molitor's very first Scharzhofbergers, it is the first vintage since I began reviewing his wines for the Wine Advocate (starting with the 2013 vintage) that doesn't include a 100-pointer so far. The Hubertuslay Beerenauslese * was very, very close, and the TBAs are still fermenting... The "lack" of a 100-pointer in the 2021 vintage is not really surprising, though. The late-ripening vintage was dramatic in terms of rainfall and cooler temperatures throughout the vegetation period, and the pickings had to be very selective. The Molitor team did a great job again, and the nature of the vintage is mirrored in the lineup: I had 34 dry whites to taste, of which 31 were Riesling—five were Kabinett, seven Spätlese and 10 were Auslese quality (six two-starred, four three-starred), and the rest are sold without predicate as Qualitätswein. Only seven wines were green-capsuled, which means feinherb or off-dry (one Kabinett, one Auslese (one star), four Spätlese and one without predicate). The second big group of the list are the 31 gold-capsuled sweet wines, of which 13 are Auslese (two one-starred, three two-starred, eight three-starred) and two one-starred Beerenauslesen. Three top crus come as dry quality wine without predicate. As usual, they are Erdener Prälat, Scharzhofberger and Bernkasteler Doctor. This is quite sensational for a producer who insisted for decades on the Prädikatswein system for dry wines as well, including the grands crus. The estate and village dry wines have been an exception for a while; but for the most prestigious crus of the portfolio, this is breaking news. "The vintage simply wasn't ripe enough for the very top quality," Molitor explained, and he said this will also be the case for the 2022 vintage. The renunciation of the predicate, no matter which one, enabled Molitor to slightly improve the musts in order to be able to give the wines the desired (and probably also expected) body. The grands crus Prälat and Doctor and probably also Scharzhofberger are, after all, exceptionally expensive wines by German standards. Collectors who spend 700 to 1,500 euros for a bottle of Riesling may indeed expect a certain amount of power and concentration on the palate, even if the vintage did not voluntarily give these characteristics. Molitor has never sold his three top wines under the Auslese label, at least not among the dry-fermented versions. Will 2021 and 2022 bring about a change? Molitor has no final thoughts on this yet, but simply selling the wines under their site name, as their colleagues in Burgundy do, is a serious consideration. Other news might be that Molitor for the first time revealed in our conversation (but not on the label) that three of his 2021 top dry (white-capsuled) Rieslings were vinified exclusively in "alternative" vats: the Ockfener Bockstein Auslese ***, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** and the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** were all vinified in a concrete egg and in clay amphorae. None of the wines have been released yet, and there is no schedule for them. The wines are fabulous and represent all the energy and vibrancy of the 2021 vintage, particularly their terroirs. Molitoir's finest 2021s are the sweet (gold capsuled) Erdener Prälat Auslese *** and the Hubertuslay Beerenauslese *, the Erdener Treppchen Auslese ***, the Zeltlinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (sweet and dry AP 92 from the amphora), the Scharzhofberger Spätlese and, last but not least, the dry Scharzhofberger. There is also an impressive gold-capsuled Kabinett of the Scharzhofberger, yet no wines of this iconic site have been released yet. We will probably have to wait for the auction either this or next year.
Published: May 31, 2023
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James Suckling
MARKUS MOLITOR RIESLING MOSEL ZELTINGER SONNENUHR SPÄTLESE (WHITE CAP) 2022
Monday, November 13, 2023
CountryGermany
RegionMosel
Vintage2022
CHECK PRICE
DOWNLOAD SHELFTALKER
Score
95
A complex nose with a wide spectrum of stone and citrus fruit aromas pulls you into this concentrated and highly-structured dry Mosel riesling that’s medium-bodied but has just 11% alcohol. Seriously racy finish that is decisively dry and very stony. Excellent potential. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
Stuart Pigott
Senior Editor
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
92
Drinking Window
2028 - 3045
From: 2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)
The 2022 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese White Capsule sends a creamy note ahead of the citrus on a rather shy nose. The palate shows ripe Mirabelle that is edged with lemon freshness; the lemon takes over, taking this further and further into zestiness on a slender palate. The 2022 is a slender Spätlese with lots of lemony verve. (Dry)
- By Anne Krebiehl MW on September 2023
Any visit to Markus Molitor’s Haus Klosterberg is a tour de force. The man himself is a force of nature. He tirelessly drives to make the best wines possible, do the utmost justice to his vineyards, and vinify as many parcels separately as he can. “Akribie,” or absolute meticulousness, is his guiding principle. His next favorite word is selection. “Transporting the identity of each site into the glass time after time, vintage by vintage,” is how one of his employees described the ethos of the estate. Add to this a tireless, obsessive nature and a deep-seated love for this intricate region and its history, and you begin to understand what you are in for. Molitor’s vast estate holdings, now amounting to 120 hectares, include the property of the former Prussian State Domaine in Serrig (Saar), which he bought in 2016. He notes how both the pandemic and building supply issues delayed the planned re-opening of this historic renovation project. Then there are new acquisitions: it took lengthy negotiation and persuasion with more than 60 vineyard owners to piece together the numerous parcels of the cooler, well-ventilated vineyards in the upper Zeltinger Schlossberg, many of them fallow for years. Molitor bought these to recultivate, so his supply of grapes for Kabinett wines is ensured in the ever-warming climate. Harvest in these elevated sites is two to three weeks later than in lower-lying vineyards. Molitor also says that he is always “on the lookout” for more sites suitable for Pinot Noir, having been among the first to plant the variety after it was re-permitted in the region in the 1980s and noting that it will be “ever more important” in the region. Wine styles at Molitor are color-coded: white capsules denote dry, green is off-dry, and gold is sweet. Within these categories, wines are tiered into one, two and three stars of each of the Prädikate, harking back to the pre-1971 attributes of “feiner”, “feinste” and “hochfein” – meaning finer, finest and absolutely fine. This old-fashioned but clear-cut distinction was conferred on wines before they went to auction during the last decades of the 19th and the first decades of the 20th centuries—the glory days of Riesling. A three-star Auslese can thus be produced in trocken, feinherb or sweet and so on. Multiply this by countless parcels in numerous sites across Mosel and Saar, several harvest passes for various Prädikate, and you understand the number of wines on offer. The star ratings are not down to degrees of Oechsle, i.e., the ripeness of the must at harvest, but to the evolution of every single lot of wine in the cellar. Molitor notes that many of the three-star Auslesen are made in tiny quantities of just 300-500 bottles. Three stars guarantee a wine at the very height of its expression. They often are from the oldest vines – but not necessarily. The sweetest Prädikate, BAs and TBAs, in tiny kegs and glass balloons, are still fermenting away in a corner of the smaller tasting room, so they benefit from the warmer temperature that they need at their glacial pace of progress. All dry wines, made strictly without botrytized grapes, are fermented and matured in 2,000- and 3,000-liter barrels made by Stockinger and some smaller barrels. This results in some Rieslings with a distinct touch of oak-derived hazelnut creaminess. Some wines also ferment in amphora, concrete egg and stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation is avoided as much as possible. While Riesling is the mainstay, Pinot Noir is of growing importance. There is also a little Pinot Blanc and, since 2018, also some Chardonnay. About 2022, Molitor said, “The important thing was to reduce yields,” and noted that depending on the site, this meant 30-40% less than his long-term average. “There has never been so little Auslese trocken,” he said and noted that, unlike some local colleagues, he did not chaptalize his wines. “There are few high caliber dry wines,” he added, “there is just a handful of extremely selected dry Auslesen, but they are still in barrel.” As could be expected from Molitor, the fact that 2022 did not offer much botrytis did not prevent him from making “16-17 nobly sweet wines, including two Beerenauslesen, one from Ürziger Würzgarten, one from Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, and two TBAs, both in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, all still fermenting away. “Each and every single raisin was selected,” he said of the painstaking work necessary to achieve such wines, explaining that he has a trusted team of women who are experienced sorters. Pressing in a small basket press takes eight to ten hours for these raisined berries. “Since 1988, we have made TBA without exception. This is no longer anything to do with economic efficiency. Indeed, the 2022 Rieslings are a mixed bunch, and, in this vintage, where Riesling struggled to ripen due to water stress, the dry wines, i.e., the white capsule wines, are slender and less expressive than usual. However, the off-dry (green capsule) and sweet (golden capsule) wines are thrilling and animating. I also tasted three dry Auslesen from 2021 that had not been bottled on my previous visit. These are phenomenal wines.
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Markus Molitor is een Duitse wijnmaker en is gevestigd in de Moezel, Duitsland. De wijnmakerij staat bekend om het produceren van hoogwaardige Rieslings, en Markus Molitor wordt beschouwd als een van de meest innovatieve wijnmakers in de regio.
Geschiedenis van Markus Molitor
De familie Molitor heeft een diepgewortelde geschiedenis in de wijnbereiding die vele generaties beslaat. Markus Molitor vertegenwoordigt de achtste generatie van het erfgoed van Molitor. De betrokkenheid van de familie bij de wijnbouw in de Moezel gaat terug tot de 18e eeuw. Markus Molitor nam het familielandgoed in 1984 op 20-jarige leeftijd officieel over. Het landgoed, gelegen in het wijngebied van de Moezel, beschikt over steile wijngaarden langs de rivier de Moezel, een karakteristiek kenmerk van de regio. De Moezel staat bekend om zijn steile, terrasvormige wijngaarden. De hellingen zorgen voor een optimale blootstelling aan zonlicht en zijn een integraal onderdeel van het unieke terroir van de wijnen die in deze regio worden geproduceerd.
Productie van Markus Molitor
Markus Molitor heeft er bewust voor gekozen om zich te concentreren op de druivensoort Riesling, die bijzonder goed geschikt is voor het koele klimaat en de leisteengronden van de Moezel. Riesling staat bekend om zijn expressieve aromaten, zuurgraad en het vermogen om het terroir te weerspiegelen. Onder leiding van Markus Molitor onderging het landgoed een aanzienlijke uitbreiding en modernisering. Er werden nieuwe wijngaarden verworven en de bestaande werden zorgvuldig beheerd om fruit van de hoogste kwaliteit te garanderen. Markus Molitor produceert een breed scala aan Rieslings die de Prädikat-niveaus bestrijken, wat de rijpheid van de druiven bij de oogst aangeeft. Het portfolio omvat droge stijlen (Trocken), halfdroge en zoete wijnen, die de veelzijdigheid van de Riesling benadrukken. Het landgoed staat bekend om zijn nadruk op wijnen uit één specifieke wijngaard. Deze wijnen benadrukken de onderscheidende kenmerken van specifieke wijngaarden, bekend als "Grosses Gewächs" of "Erste Lage." De toewijding van Markus Molitor aan kwaliteit en de unieke expressie van het terroir heeft het landgoed internationale bekendheid opgeleverd. De wijnen zijn gewild bij verzamelaars en liefhebbers vanwege hun authenticiteit en leeftijdswaardige kenmerken. Markus Molitor respecteert de traditionele wijnbereidingsmethoden, waaronder zorgvuldige handmatige oogst en zachte verwerking van de druiven. Tegelijkertijd past hij moderne technieken toe om de kwaliteit van de wijnen verder te verbeteren.
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