2022 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
|---|---|
| Land | |
| Regio | |
| Appellatie | |
| Wijnhuis | Hubert Lamy |
| Jaar | 2022 |
| Druif | |
| Inhoud (Alc) | 0.75 ltr (13.5%) |
| Drink venster | 2025 - 2040 |
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Omschrijving
In 1973 trouwen René Lamy en Thérèse Pillot, beide geboren in echte wijnbouwfamilies, en startten zij hun domein in het Hameau de Morgeot aan de rand van Chassagne-Montrachet. De Familie PILLOT vindt haar origines terug in de gemeente Chassagne-Montrachet in 1595. Het wijngoed Lamy-Pillot is een familiedomein dat werkt op 20 hectare wijngaarden, verdeeld over 27 verschillende appellaties, voornamelijk gelegen in Chassagne-Montrachet en Saint-Aubin. Tegenwoordig is het domein in handen van dochters Florence en Karine en hun echtgenoten. Florence en haar man Sebastien Caillat zijn tegenwoordig verantwoordelijk voor de vinificatie. Florence heeft haar opleiding genoten in Beaune, terwijl Sebastien Caillat geschoold is in Straatsburg en Dijon. Naast de opleiding hebben zij beide vele stages gelopen, in binnen– en buitenland, alvorens in 1998 de kelder over te nemen.
De Chardonnay komen van de wijngaard "Les Pucelles" gelegen in het deelgebied Saint Aubin. De wijngaard heeft een omvang van slechts 66 are (6.600 m2) en hier kunnen in de goede jaren maximaal 4.200 flessen worden gemaakt maar vaak is er in deze regio altijd wel een beetje vorst-of hagelschade dus het daadwerkelijke aantal ligt vaak lager. De Saint Aubin Appelatie is wat ons betreft een zeer interessante regio. De wijn zijn net wat toegankelijk en wat vooral niet onvermeld mag worden is dat ze prijs-technisch duidelijk gunstiger liggen dan bijv de Montrachets maar voordeliger betekent zeker niet minder in kwaliteit.
De Chardonnay wijngaard is aangeplant in het jaar 1973 en 1974 dus als zeer oude stokken. De wijngaard heeft een zuidelijke/zuid westelijke ligging. De bodem bestaat het losse kalkhoudende zond, kiezels en kalkstenen. Zoals bij alle wijnen worden de druiven handmatig geplukt en krijgen ze veroudering gedurende 12-18 maanden op eiken vaten waarbij 25% op nieuw eiken.
De Les Pucelles is een zeer mooie appellatie. Deze wijngaard produceert charmante wijnen. Witte bloemen en boter vermengen zich in de neus en alles is perfect in balans. De neus, vleiend jong, opent tegelijkertijd de deur naar een tedere en nerveuze mond. De wijngaard heeft al zoveel mee gemaakt gezien zijn leeftijd dat de wijnen zeer constant zijn kwaliteit en er weinig verschil is tussen de jaargangen maar enfin dat is met het mooie 2018 al helemaal geen issue.
Specificaties
| Block Bundle Options | Nee |
|---|---|
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
| Land | Frankrijk |
| Regio | Bourgogne |
| Appellatie | Saint-Aubin |
| Wijnhuis | Hubert Lamy |
| Druif | Chardonnay |
| Biologisch gecertificeerd | Nee |
| Natural wijn | Nee |
| Vegan | Nee |
| Jaar | 2022 |
| Drinken vanaf | 2025 |
| Drinken tot | 2040 |
| Alcohol % | 13.5 |
| Alcoholvrij/arm | Nee |
| Inhoud | 0.75 ltr |
| Houtrijping | Ja |
| Bubbels | Nee |
| Dessert wijn | Nee |
| Afsluiting | Kurk |
| Parker rating | 92 |
| Vinous rating | 92 |
| Smaakprofiel | Complex, Droog, Fruitig, Houtgerijpt, Krachtig, Mineraal, Rond, Vol, Wit fruit |
| Drink momenten | Cadeau!, Lekker luxe, Met vrienden, Open haard, Romantisch |
Professionele Recensies
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 92
Reviewed by:
William Kelley
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
2025 - 2040
Habitually one of the domaine's more mineral wines, the 2021 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is taut and electric, offering up scents of white flowers, sweet citrus oil, oyster shell and toasted nuts, followed by a medium-bodied, pure and racy palate that's saline and electric.
Oliver Lamy managed to remain remarkably sanguine during the devastating 2021 frosts, which hit Saint-Aubin especially hard, even if late pruning managed to to reduce some of the damage. Since the shock weakened the vines, even if it also radically diminished potential yields, the answer was more work in the vineyards to fight against disease and to mitigate stress—hedging canopies by hand or interweaving their shoots without cutting and, of course, regular phytosanitary treatments. Come harvest, Lamy wasn't all that confident, yet he risked keeping lots of lees in white, and stems in red—and it worked. Of course, these chiseled, electric and concentrated wines are built for the long haul. They clearly surpass their counterparts in 2016, another heavily frosted vintage. They're not made to impress tasters who privilege aroma over texture or winemaking artifice over site expression. But, they are more than worthy of a vigneron whose tireless efforts over the last 25 years are now consistently delivering some of contemporary Burgundy's greatest wines. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture, including plantings at over 20,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies, extended maturation on the lees, which now amounts to 24 months in total, 23 of those in largely neutral wood, obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, make the difference between the best and the rest, Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source, readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Forget them in the cellar for a decade and reap the rewards!
Published: Jan 18, 2024
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
92
Drinking Window
2027 - 2043
From: Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)
The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru, a mix of 10- and 80-year-old vines, is elegant on the nose and quite refined. Touches of orchard fruit and white peach and just a hint of marzipan in the background that betrays the warm summer. The palate is well-balanced, very saline, taut and focused. Then, it clams down on the finish and orders you to come back in 3-4 years to see if it's ready for business.
- By Neal Martin on November 2022
Olivier Lamy, whose father sadly passed away at the beginning of my Burgundy tour, now shows the latest bottled vintage instead of the one currently in barrel. “It was sunnier, drier and hotter than usual,” Lamy explains. “There was 50% less water and 25% more sun. We started the harvest on 21 August and finished on 31 August [very different from all the other dates I hear during those weeks apropos the 2021 vintage!]. It was earlier than in 2003. There was less juice for the Pinot Noir that was cropped at 22hL/ha, but for the whites it was 40-45hL/ha. There was a long élevage: 23 months plus one month in tank.”
92
Drinking Window
2027 - 2043
From: Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)
The 2021 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru has a composed bouquet that unfurls in the glass, less immediate than, say, the Chez Edouard, but it is more concentrated with a touch more yellow fruit. The palate is beautifully balanced with a keen line of acidity and a very precise, lightly spiced finish. Excellent.
- By Neal Martin on November 2023
Like previous years, Olivier Lamy hosted a group tasting, thankfully a little smaller than one or two others. Prior to tasting, Lamy offered us a chance to snoop around his impressive, if half-built, tasting room that will provide visitors with a splendid vista across Saint-Aubin village and over the vineyards beyond. A huge expansion down in the barrel cellar, too, gives Lamy much more room to work. He assiduously left one of the walls exposed so that you can see and touch the complex stratified geology of the area.
Lamy is one of a few vignerons, along with Leflaive and Roulot, that no longer show their vintage in barrel, opting to pour the most recently bottled vintage. I detailed the stürm und drang of 2021 in last year’s report. Therefore, I shall not repeat it here. Suffice it to say that Lamy’s holdings were impacted to widely varying degrees, the hard limestone soils taking the brunt. Yet he still eked out his complete range of cuvées, albeit occasionally in drastically reduced quantities. “Some parcels on the mid-slope were cropped at just 10hL/ha,” he explains. “We de-bud the vines hard earlier in the season, during which we often had to work at weekends, including Sundays.” Lamy produces graphical data from the BIVB that suggests that the season could be seen as “normal” using some metrics. Certainly, he feels that 2021 separated those who spend time in the vines and those who do not, Lamy obviously in the former camp. He picked from September 17 to September 28 using a smaller team than usual. He conducted a 12-day cuvaison for the reds and a shorter élevage, using fewer whole bunches. Most of the wines come in between 12.5% and 13.0% alcohol, and they were bottled in July 2023, the second winter crucial in meliorating the wines.
This set of wines mocks the ill-informed traducing the 2021 vintage. That does not imply that everything came up smelling of roses. Some wines are patently better in other vintages and simply did the best that they could. Yet many are replete with tension and mineralité, at times as complex as their counterparts fortuitously born in more benevolent seasons. The core of Saint-Aubin Premier Crus vary in quality. At their best, you might call them serious, uncompromising wines that will appeal to hardcore Burgundy lovers - cerebral wines to light a dinner table demanding fermented grape juice of the highest order. One interesting aspect of the 2021s, a “perversion,” you might say, is that the frost impacted the Haut-Densité cuvées more than the regular ones since he increased planting density with younger vines that are more susceptible to the frost.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Exclusieve Inhoud
Log in om professionele wijnrecensies van wereldberoemde critici te ontgrendelen
In 1973 trouwen René Lamy en Thérèse Pillot, beide geboren in echte wijnbouwfamilies, en startten zij hun domein in het Hameau de Morgeot aan de rand van Chassagne-Montrachet. De Familie PILLOT vindt haar origines terug in de gemeente Chassagne-Montrachet in 1595. Het wijngoed Lamy-Pillot is een familiedomein dat werkt op 20 hectare wijngaarden, verdeeld over 27 verschillende appellaties, voornamelijk gelegen in Chassagne-Montrachet en Saint-Aubin. Tegenwoordig is het domein in handen van dochters Florence en Karine en hun echtgenoten. Florence en haar man Sebastien Caillat zijn tegenwoordig verantwoordelijk voor de vinificatie. Florence heeft haar opleiding genoten in Beaune, terwijl Sebastien Caillat geschoold is in Straatsburg en Dijon. Naast de opleiding hebben zij beide vele stages gelopen, in binnen– en buitenland, alvorens in 1998 de kelder over te nemen.
De Chardonnay komen van de wijngaard "Les Pucelles" gelegen in het deelgebied Saint Aubin. De wijngaard heeft een omvang van slechts 66 are (6.600 m2) en hier kunnen in de goede jaren maximaal 4.200 flessen worden gemaakt maar vaak is er in deze regio altijd wel een beetje vorst-of hagelschade dus het daadwerkelijke aantal ligt vaak lager. De Saint Aubin Appelatie is wat ons betreft een zeer interessante regio. De wijn zijn net wat toegankelijk en wat vooral niet onvermeld mag worden is dat ze prijs-technisch duidelijk gunstiger liggen dan bijv de Montrachets maar voordeliger betekent zeker niet minder in kwaliteit.
De Chardonnay wijngaard is aangeplant in het jaar 1973 en 1974 dus als zeer oude stokken. De wijngaard heeft een zuidelijke/zuid westelijke ligging. De bodem bestaat het losse kalkhoudende zond, kiezels en kalkstenen. Zoals bij alle wijnen worden de druiven handmatig geplukt en krijgen ze veroudering gedurende 12-18 maanden op eiken vaten waarbij 25% op nieuw eiken.
De Les Pucelles is een zeer mooie appellatie. Deze wijngaard produceert charmante wijnen. Witte bloemen en boter vermengen zich in de neus en alles is perfect in balans. De neus, vleiend jong, opent tegelijkertijd de deur naar een tedere en nerveuze mond. De wijngaard heeft al zoveel mee gemaakt gezien zijn leeftijd dat de wijnen zeer constant zijn kwaliteit en er weinig verschil is tussen de jaargangen maar enfin dat is met het mooie 2018 al helemaal geen issue.
| Block Bundle Options | Nee |
|---|---|
| Wijnsoort | Wit |
| Land | Frankrijk |
| Regio | Bourgogne |
| Appellatie | Saint-Aubin |
| Wijnhuis | Hubert Lamy |
| Druif | Chardonnay |
| Biologisch gecertificeerd | Nee |
| Natural wijn | Nee |
| Vegan | Nee |
| Jaar | 2022 |
| Drinken vanaf | 2025 |
| Drinken tot | 2040 |
| Alcohol % | 13.5 |
| Alcoholvrij/arm | Nee |
| Inhoud | 0.75 ltr |
| Houtrijping | Ja |
| Bubbels | Nee |
| Dessert wijn | Nee |
| Afsluiting | Kurk |
| Parker rating | 92 |
| Vinous rating | 92 |
| Smaakprofiel | Complex, Droog, Fruitig, Houtgerijpt, Krachtig, Mineraal, Rond, Vol, Wit fruit |
| Drink momenten | Cadeau!, Lekker luxe, Met vrienden, Open haard, Romantisch |
Parker
The Wine Advocate
RP 92
Reviewed by:
William Kelley
Release Price:
NA
Drink Date:
2025 - 2040
Habitually one of the domaine's more mineral wines, the 2021 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is taut and electric, offering up scents of white flowers, sweet citrus oil, oyster shell and toasted nuts, followed by a medium-bodied, pure and racy palate that's saline and electric.
Oliver Lamy managed to remain remarkably sanguine during the devastating 2021 frosts, which hit Saint-Aubin especially hard, even if late pruning managed to to reduce some of the damage. Since the shock weakened the vines, even if it also radically diminished potential yields, the answer was more work in the vineyards to fight against disease and to mitigate stress—hedging canopies by hand or interweaving their shoots without cutting and, of course, regular phytosanitary treatments. Come harvest, Lamy wasn't all that confident, yet he risked keeping lots of lees in white, and stems in red—and it worked. Of course, these chiseled, electric and concentrated wines are built for the long haul. They clearly surpass their counterparts in 2016, another heavily frosted vintage. They're not made to impress tasters who privilege aroma over texture or winemaking artifice over site expression. But, they are more than worthy of a vigneron whose tireless efforts over the last 25 years are now consistently delivering some of contemporary Burgundy's greatest wines. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture, including plantings at over 20,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies, extended maturation on the lees, which now amounts to 24 months in total, 23 of those in largely neutral wood, obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, make the difference between the best and the rest, Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source, readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Forget them in the cellar for a decade and reap the rewards!
Published: Jan 18, 2024
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Vinous
92
Drinking Window
2027 - 2043
From: Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)
The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru, a mix of 10- and 80-year-old vines, is elegant on the nose and quite refined. Touches of orchard fruit and white peach and just a hint of marzipan in the background that betrays the warm summer. The palate is well-balanced, very saline, taut and focused. Then, it clams down on the finish and orders you to come back in 3-4 years to see if it's ready for business.
- By Neal Martin on November 2022
Olivier Lamy, whose father sadly passed away at the beginning of my Burgundy tour, now shows the latest bottled vintage instead of the one currently in barrel. “It was sunnier, drier and hotter than usual,” Lamy explains. “There was 50% less water and 25% more sun. We started the harvest on 21 August and finished on 31 August [very different from all the other dates I hear during those weeks apropos the 2021 vintage!]. It was earlier than in 2003. There was less juice for the Pinot Noir that was cropped at 22hL/ha, but for the whites it was 40-45hL/ha. There was a long élevage: 23 months plus one month in tank.”
92
Drinking Window
2027 - 2043
From: Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)
The 2021 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru has a composed bouquet that unfurls in the glass, less immediate than, say, the Chez Edouard, but it is more concentrated with a touch more yellow fruit. The palate is beautifully balanced with a keen line of acidity and a very precise, lightly spiced finish. Excellent.
- By Neal Martin on November 2023
Like previous years, Olivier Lamy hosted a group tasting, thankfully a little smaller than one or two others. Prior to tasting, Lamy offered us a chance to snoop around his impressive, if half-built, tasting room that will provide visitors with a splendid vista across Saint-Aubin village and over the vineyards beyond. A huge expansion down in the barrel cellar, too, gives Lamy much more room to work. He assiduously left one of the walls exposed so that you can see and touch the complex stratified geology of the area.
Lamy is one of a few vignerons, along with Leflaive and Roulot, that no longer show their vintage in barrel, opting to pour the most recently bottled vintage. I detailed the stürm und drang of 2021 in last year’s report. Therefore, I shall not repeat it here. Suffice it to say that Lamy’s holdings were impacted to widely varying degrees, the hard limestone soils taking the brunt. Yet he still eked out his complete range of cuvées, albeit occasionally in drastically reduced quantities. “Some parcels on the mid-slope were cropped at just 10hL/ha,” he explains. “We de-bud the vines hard earlier in the season, during which we often had to work at weekends, including Sundays.” Lamy produces graphical data from the BIVB that suggests that the season could be seen as “normal” using some metrics. Certainly, he feels that 2021 separated those who spend time in the vines and those who do not, Lamy obviously in the former camp. He picked from September 17 to September 28 using a smaller team than usual. He conducted a 12-day cuvaison for the reds and a shorter élevage, using fewer whole bunches. Most of the wines come in between 12.5% and 13.0% alcohol, and they were bottled in July 2023, the second winter crucial in meliorating the wines.
This set of wines mocks the ill-informed traducing the 2021 vintage. That does not imply that everything came up smelling of roses. Some wines are patently better in other vintages and simply did the best that they could. Yet many are replete with tension and mineralité, at times as complex as their counterparts fortuitously born in more benevolent seasons. The core of Saint-Aubin Premier Crus vary in quality. At their best, you might call them serious, uncompromising wines that will appeal to hardcore Burgundy lovers - cerebral wines to light a dinner table demanding fermented grape juice of the highest order. One interesting aspect of the 2021s, a “perversion,” you might say, is that the frost impacted the Haut-Densité cuvées more than the regular ones since he increased planting density with younger vines that are more susceptible to the frost.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua...
Exclusieve Inhoud
Log in om professionele wijnrecensies van wereldberoemde critici te ontgrendelen
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